fire and water

the missile

2011-01-15T13:25:00.000-08:00

the old bar is long gone. always liked the sign-figured it will be gone soon.

new fish

2010-10-16T15:37:00.000-07:00

for evan

groundhog day

2010-09-04T17:11:00.000-07:00

same trip as last year- same awsome results.waves, fish, and good times.

stolen

2010-06-26T20:35:00.000-07:00

new fish

2010-06-22T17:17:00.000-07:00

finally starting the summer board building frenzy.5'10" for paul

april adventure

2010-04-22T20:33:00.000-07:00

tried something new. most people skip this place. ill be going back.

new one

2010-03-25T20:53:00.000-07:00

just finished one{i think no. 7}that came out ok.[for a backyard glass job].6'5" x20"

all good

2009-09-29T10:10:00.000-07:00

another great september adventure. good waves, good fishing, and the backyard boards even worked pretty good.super fun.

road trip

2009-09-13T12:13:00.000-07:00

heading way south for my annual late summer fun.nothing better. reports and photos in a few weeks

for another

2009-09-07T18:36:00.000-07:00

the first board ive made for someone else. 6'2" fishy shortboard for my baja traveling comanion p.h.full test drive coming soon

uninvited guest

2009-08-26T16:03:00.000-07:00

caught and released this guy the other day while fishing out past the coronados. they're awsome to look at up close when you're not swimming with them.

as it was

2009-08-24T17:58:00.000-07:00

a common sight from days gone by

new one

2009-08-17T17:00:00.000-07:00

finished shape and glass on no. 5 -pretty stoked

quiet time

2009-07-28T14:30:00.000-07:00

it took some effort to escape the effects of the massive hype this south swell got .

summer of fun

2009-07-05T20:07:00.000-07:00

been calling this summer the summer of fun because it just seems that there is so much cool stuff to do and for some reason i feel like doing it all. gem lake, eastern sierra, 6-28-09

police-fire olympics

2009-06-16T17:09:00.000-07:00

awsome day today at a ventura co. reef. surfed and took some pics of my friends.fun waves,perfect weather and good times.

go north

2009-06-14T19:12:00.000-07:00

just home from a great trip north.surfed a board i shaped and glassed for the first time and it actually worked good.surfed with an orca and a bunch of seals who seamed to think they needed to cluster in a bunch and yell to keep from being eaten. it was awsome.

enough spring

2009-05-30T14:50:00.000-07:00

bring on the summer south swells

burnt

2009-05-12T16:34:00.000-07:00

santa barbara gets hammered again

all is well

2009-04-24T21:12:00.000-07:00

feels good to have wet rubber hanging on the fence again.

from above

2009-04-23T13:23:00.000-07:00

S.S.-shot from the pier by mrs. S.S.

keep it personal

2009-04-22T19:10:00.000-07:00

swiped this bit of sarcasom off the web somewhere a while back.its just too personal and special to share with a factory in china.have your board made by someone you can talk too.

whitey

2009-04-04T17:33:00.000-07:00

celebrated the end of my rehab from knee surgery and rediculosly long time out of the water by shapeing and glassing a new one.might be a while longer till i find the kind of waves i would want to ride it in though

through the fog

2009-02-09T09:21:00.000-08:00

forgot i shot this sequence around thanksgiving till i developed the film the other day. foggy and sunny at the same time. 10' faces. no one out.

flatsville

2009-01-31T17:05:00.000-08:00

lake pacifica

done deal

2009-01-28T14:33:00.000-08:00

finished product. glassing in the backyard continues to be challinging. light blank and light sand finish glass job. cant wait to ride it

shuffle

2009-01-23T15:47:00.000-08:00

if you have surfed with these guys, you know the feeling.shuffle along carefully

resin

2009-01-21T13:14:00.000-08:00

having some fun with resin and colors glassing the fish.

great day

2009-01-16T20:11:00.000-08:00

day after day of perfect santa ana conditions. finished a little quad fish today and then went out to watch for our new swell. truly an awsome day

fun board

2009-01-04T16:58:00.000-08:00

some people dont think "funshapes" are real surfboards, but i love mine. my friends refer to it as the "mothers milk" because i always go back to it.inside of a big quiver, it has logged more good sessions than any other board i have.

drawings

2009-01-01T09:32:00.000-08:00

these have always been some of my favorites. by an artist in santa cruz named tim ward.

airbrush

2008-12-29T11:14:00.000-08:00

a while back i was lucky enough to bump into malcolm campbell at a surf shop and talk for a bit. super nice guy. i told him i would mail him some shots of a board i have. it has a neat airbrush on both sides done by his friend who is now deceased. anyways, these are them-

biff

2008-12-27T19:02:00.000-08:00

my friends wife took this shot and apologised after. i was stoked. the lame biff is as much a part of surfing{mine anyway} as the bottom turn.

lighthouse

2008-12-22T11:31:00.000-08:00

borrowed from the sb surf forum. hard to believe anything built by man could take that kind of beating.

remember

2008-12-20T14:40:00.000-08:00

since there hasnt been alot of waves so far this winter, heres a look back to last year- north of l.a.

head dip

2008-12-10T15:48:00.000-08:00

sometimes i wonder what compels me to try to squeeze into barrels that arnt there.knowing full well its too small and not hollow enough.i guess if you dont fall they call it a head dip.

big wind

2008-12-09T17:23:00.000-08:00

hard offshores today with a really high tide at 6:00. dragged my feet and showed up late to find super fun ones with no one around. anywhere. great day

thanks

2008-11-30T14:52:00.000-08:00

just returned from the holliday. more people than i like but everything from clean ones on my fish to big giant barrels. more photos later.almost tripped over this dolphin on my first go out. looks like somethin got two big bites.

on a roll

2008-11-20T21:34:00.000-08:00

personal favorite.

ted

2008-11-20T20:48:00.000-08:00

figured its time for some music on the blog. ted rules.

gnarly

2008-11-20T20:16:00.000-08:00

thenks to oregons 'blown off shore' for this killer wipeout video.

smallsville

2008-11-14T19:14:00.000-08:00

the arrival of our offshores could'nt save the weak swell-giant tide swing thing we've had the last few days. small and fragile

here they come

2008-11-11T17:39:00.000-08:00

offshore winds scheduled for the end of the week. if we can just get past this 7' high tide in the am, things will be looking like this again

victory at sea

2008-11-09T19:06:00.000-08:00

cranking onshores from sun up to sun down. hoping relief is on the way

water

2008-11-07T20:06:00.000-08:00

it has occured to me that i started this blog as a diversion from work and because im obsessed with surfing. anyways, from now on it will be more like water than fire and water. if something really exciting happens at work ill post. lets go surfing

man up

2008-11-03T19:27:00.000-08:00

theres a place i like to camp in the winter, and im going there real soon. sometimes i get home from these trips and wonder why i didnt pull into some of those dbl overhead barrels i took pics of. this years gonna be different!!? well see

mp rules

2008-10-29T12:11:00.000-07:00

peterson had style like no other.

trip pics

2008-10-11T11:33:00.000-07:00

a friend of mine in baja shot these of me and a friend from work on my last trip south

satisfaction

2008-10-09T11:40:00.000-07:00

now that i finally started making my own boards[something ive wanted to do for a long time],im stoked that my first one is actually surfable. but whats even more fun is watching your friends have fun on it. here making the most out of small s. baja mush.

30 years

2008-09-27T17:05:00.000-07:00

found this picture today and got to thinking about the differences between the surf trip i just did and this one 30 years ago.

home

2008-09-25T10:40:00.000-07:00

made it home from my baja adventure. awsome trip with waves, fish, and good times. will post some surf shots soon.

finally

2008-09-11T09:51:00.000-07:00

finally finished glassing the big fat orange thing. found out its really hard to do a good gloss coat outside in your yard. anyway, its going with me to baja this week on a big trip. will give a report on if it actually works when i get home.

almost fall

2008-09-02T09:42:00.000-07:00

with fall right around the corner, heres some shots of my home break from last year.

sew what

2008-08-29T10:17:00.000-07:00

part of the area i work in is old manufacturing. i always thought it was a neat part of the city.over time things have changed and now its almost all sweat shops(garment industry).kind of sad i think. burnt this one up the other day.

moving right along

2008-08-24T16:09:00.000-07:00

hotcoated it today. trying to get it done for a trip to baja soon. hoping it will be just the ticket for those afternoon go-outs with tired arms(noodles)

finished lam

2008-08-23T10:30:00.000-07:00

finished the lamination today and tought myself a few more things in the process.

round two

2008-08-16T16:00:00.000-07:00

had so much fun shaping and glassing the fish, so here we go again. 7'0" single fin egg with lots of foam.in over my head trying to do a tint both sides. did bottom and rails today.went pretty smooth till i knocked over my resin bucket.

what are friends for

2008-08-13T16:32:00.000-07:00

an old friend called today to go surf. I hadnt checked in a while and was convinced it was small and crap. we hadnt surfed together in a long time and got chest high glassy fun ones. what a great surprise. and the new twinzer is awsome! fastest board ive ever ridden.

huge

2008-07-28T14:39:00.000-07:00

this is one of my favorite shots of george greenough. thought i read once that it was at sunset during the filming of big wednesday. dont know for sure but i cant imagine kicking around in real surf on a mat lugging that huge camara around. inventer, waterman, individual . greenough is a badass.

done

2008-07-11T08:56:00.000-07:00

finally finished board #1. made huge mistakes at every step but its still surfable. now to find out how a big fat twinzer fish works

road trip

2008-07-08T09:21:00.000-07:00

just got back after working in chico and golita for a while. got to protect the homes of some very nice people. fires are still burning everywhere.

damage control

2008-06-29T19:49:00.000-07:00

trying to recover from yet another premature kick off of the deck lam. hopefully not too far gone to save. maybe do the hot coat tomarrow.

never again

2008-06-21T08:43:00.000-07:00

first shot at glassing today. #1 nightmare comes true when my resin kicked before it was done. it can probably be saved but i dont think ill be switching jobs any time soon.

supersize it

2008-06-20T13:15:00.000-07:00

last month we had a couple of really big fires. this was one of them

minor progress

2008-06-14T20:56:00.000-07:00

got my fins and boxes. maybe glass it this week. yeah

redfish in mexico

2008-06-09T11:39:00.000-07:00

somewhere new

2008-06-06T17:54:00.000-07:00

went north with the family. got to surf somewhere new. could have done without these signs.

Daydream

2008-05-15T14:16:00.000-07:00

Trying to recover from an injury- thoughts have turned to a trip North at the end of the month. Passing the time with pictures like this in my head.

progress report

2008-05-09T14:23:00.002-07:00

My spring project so far. Hung up waiting for future "twinzer" fins and boxes on order. This was to be a keel fish till I shaped it. It seemed to be begging for a twinzer setup so that is the new plan.

no surprise

2008-05-08T12:52:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you know whats behind the door before you open it.

1st one

2008-04-21T20:47:00.000-07:00

Spring flatness has forced me to find something surf related to keep me sane. My first attempt at shapeing. Im almost done with the shapeing part- now comes the real comedy- the glass job.

perspective

2008-04-16T20:57:00.000-07:00

The spot that I surf the most that I consider my "home break" is usually empty. Still, when you arrive and find it good with no one out you get that happy feeling and the urge to hurry up and get in before anyone shows up. A few months ago I got up in the dark and drove through the fog to my spot. A hike to the waters edge[so I could see the waves-it was still dark] revealed head- high barrels peeling off a shallow sandbar. I hurried back to get changed and was thinking about a guy that got bit by a seal at this spot a few years ago. I have been repetedly hasseled by a big seal here in the past and its hard not to wonder where he is sometimes. Darkness and fog bring about such thoughts. Anyways, when I went back to paddle out , at the waters edge I was greeted with a scene very similar to this one. I suddenly felt lame being worried about a seal.I guess theres bigger concerns out there. nonetheless, Best session of my winter.

Nighttime

2008-04-14T20:37:00.000-07:00

A good portion of the interesting things [by my way of thinking] that happen in south L.A., seem to happen at night. Sometimes when I'm busy working the thought will cross my mind that if my family sleeping at home could see what I'm looking at they might think it was interesting. Or scary. Or both.

spring

2008-04-11T14:36:00.000-07:00

The best thing I can say about spring wave-wise is that late summer Baja isnt too far off. After a great winter things have flattened big-time.Time to get some chores done and daydream about past trips.

Some give all

2008-04-10T12:18:00.000-07:00

Sometimes a bad day at work can be washed off with a surf. Sometimes it can't. Adios Brent- Rest in Peace

Perfect day

2008-04-09T21:31:00.000-07:00

The other day was my b-day and I could not have asked for a better one. My family, some waves, perfect weather, my favorite beach and my dog. So good its almost scary. Something about waves breaking in shallow reef, turning purple with the kelp, being able to see the starfish pass under your feet- A majic day